La Fenice

A Different View

The Matterhorn. Its Zermatt face: implacable, haughty, iconic. Or as seen from Cervinia, where it is called Monte Cervino. Enticing, more quirky. It teases. For many, it is the more interesting angle, either to climb or to gaze upon. But not many people find luxury on the slopes of the Matterhorn. You can.

La Fenice means Phoenix, the bird that, legend tells, rises magnificently from ashes. It’s a fitting name for this glamorous mountain retreat just above the resort of Cervinia. In its first incarnation, almost 100 years ago, it entertained the rich, the famous and the powerful. It reached its zenith in the 1930s then to fall (for reasons that are obvious) into ruin. But now it has been restored. Fabulously.

The chalet fits its environment. It is hard to visualise the finesse of the interior when you catch sight of its old stone walls, its steeply sloping roof. It perches on a rocky crag, it has interrupted views of some of the most awe-inspiring scenery in Europe, and yet it can be reached by road. Cervinia, long over-looked by seekers of the sophisticated winter holiday, has skiing worthy of this prestigious addition. We at Ski Boutique have long been fans of the Italian side of the Matterhorn, not only because of its proximity to Zermatt nor of its wide open immaculately groomed pistes. Cervinia has its own backcountry treasures, a wealth of ski-touring and exciting opportunities to get in a helicopter and explore the steep and deep. With La Fenice, the resort now welcomes those seeking an alpine vacation that soars above pedestrian expectations.

Enter via a tunnel, past ski and bike rooms with facilities and luxuries that are totally indulgent, to an in-house lift that whisks you to the other floors. Every room is exquisite, while retaining the ambiance, the relaxed approach, that a chalet in the mountains should be all about. From the living space, appropriately labelled the drawing and club rooms, to the elegance of the dining room with its sublimely comfortable chairs around a vast table, it pays respect to the Golden Age of mountaineering. Then it styles it up, adds modern comfort and technology and makes it beautiful.   

Accommodation goes way beyond the wildest dreams of a Victorian mountaineer, or even a European aristocrat of the 1920s. Four ‘Junior Suites’ are spacious and stylish, the two ‘Master Suites’ surpass the proportions and the attention to detail that other bedrooms given that name enjoy. The ‘Matterhorn Suite’ at the top of the chalet is 46 square metres of heaven. However, the real charm is that, however sumptuous, La Fenice does not lose sight of its true character. As you turn your gaze to the views through wood framed windows, you know you are in a mountain chalet, albeit a very special one. Wining and dining are some of the highlights of a chalet holiday. Your private chef will prepare bespoke catering to fit your tastes and your needs, using the finest local, seasonal, organic where possible, ingredients. The wine cellar is waiting to share with you its collection of fine vintages, including some little-known local gems.

Set on its hill, La Fenice greets the first of the morning sun and is bathed in the last of its rays at the end of the day. Of course, even Cervinia (with its enviable sun record) sometimes experiences clouds and it does, mercifully, snow. But what a wonderful place to spend a mountain day ensconced in your chalet. There is plenty to amuse everyone. The spa is more than a relaxing dip at the end of the ski day, you can spend hours swimming the 10m sunken pool, lounging in the glass fronted sauna or the large Hamman, wallowing in the outdoor hot tub. There is an outrageously well-equipped gym and then you can relax with a therapeutic treatment from visiting professionals in the art of making you feel at one with yourself and your world. Or get busy. The hours slip past in the games room, with its bespoke pool table, table tennis and football, VR headset and the latest Xbox. Some members of the party might be begging for another cloudy day. You might even run out of time to make the most of the deep sofas in the dedicated cinema, where staff are on hand with unlimited popcorn.

Oh yes, the staff! It almost goes without saying that you will be very well looked after indeed. The Front of House manager will attend to your requests and ensure you get the best out of your stay, supported by a team who know all about combining attentiveness with discretion.

Imagine the morning. It is sunny. The experienced skiers are setting off on the traverse to the nearby blue piste to descend to the lift station, catch all the connections over the Plateau Rosa for the fabulous descent into Zermatt and Chez Vrony for lunch (reservation made - tick). The less speedy are being driven down the road directly to the lift station with plans to ski the sunny slopes to Valtournenche and the Foyer des Guides for lunch (reservation – tick). At the end of the day, you all meet at Testa Grigia and are the last on the slopes as the evening light makes the snow glow pink.

This is heaven, this is the phoenix.